Materials/ Construction
Information & Care
I'm shown holding weathered antique barn
board and environmentally friendly
harvested red cedar. I also work with birch,
spruce, hickory, and other unique lumber.
On left photo I'm shaping a cedar twig for
end turning a tenon.(Finished in right
photo) I also use a lap style joinery that is
both strong and has a traditional, primitive
look.
Depending on what I'm creating whether it
be more modern or traditional, i use many
different fasteners. From left to right hand
wrought nails, cut nails, into stainless steel
screws, and a variety of galvanized twist
shank nail. I will also use special epoxies,
depending on the application.
Red Cedar has a red/ purple heart wood.
Old timers would say cedar lasts ten years
longer than a rock. Since it has little shrink
value and doesn't crack like white
cedar(white cedar does not have the
longevity of red cedar). Red cedar is rot
resistant and the only wood in North
America that is insect proof.
As a general rule, painted furniture is
always best brought indoors for winter
storage. Usually a coat of wax over the
paint can extend it's life. The construction
techniques I use allow for water to pass
through the piece so that water damage is
minimal. My rustic red cedar is rot resistant
and virtually insect proof. Hardware and
home centers can supply you with a clear
polyurethane which also helps with
furnitures durability. The most important
thing I suggest is to keep the piece away
from constant water to avoid the "wicking"
of water up its legs. Generally I apply a
special sealant to the bottom of my
furniture legs to prevent this from
happening.